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Thanksgiving is over and the last turkey leftovers are gone. As we head into the Christmas homestretch, many cooks and party planners might be asking, Wheres the beef? For an answer, look no further than Richard Pinto, master butcher at Palmers Market in Darien.
Pinto began his meat education working in his fathers East Side butcher shop as a young boy, then returned there after a detour to Manhattan College, where he earned a B.S. in mathematics. That scientific bent is evident when he talks about beef, specifically the advantages of the dry-aged variety.
When beef is first cut, theres a lot of water in it, he says. That makes it look nice and red and fresh, but it doesnt cook very well. Pinto explains that when juicy meat is put in a hot oven, the liquid starts to boil at 212 degrees and starts to par-boil the solid fibers before they can reach the optimal cooking temperature of 350 degrees. And you know what boiled beef tastes like, he says, turning up his nose.
To prevent this phenomenon, better beef is hung and allowed to partially dry out and age for up to six weeks. This brings the moisture content down by 20 percent and also allows enzymes to begin to break down the fibers and naturally tenderize the meat. Pinto is quick to note that the entire piece is surrounded by fat or bone, sealing out harmful bacteria, like the rind on a wheel of cheese.
When the exterior is trimmed, the remaining cut is almost melt-in-your-mouth tender. Shoppers will pay more for the time and loss of weight involved, but Pinto feels its well worth it.
I love finding just the right cut for each cooks dinner, he says. I feel like Im at every customers holiday table.
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